Women Series : PATCHARAVIPA

Women drive demand for more than 90% of the world’s jewellery. The Women’s Interview Series

launched by Isabella Yan, Jewellery Journalist and Founder of Art meets Jewellery,

aims to celebrate and amplify women’s voices in all facets and levels of the industry.

By Isabella Yan

Talented Thai jewellery designer Patcharavipa Bodiratnangkura is one of the hottest names in the contemporary jewellery design scene. Her love of earthy organic lines and surprising material contrasts can be seen from her sleek boutique design to the coconut shells in her fine jewellery. Born into an illustrious family of inventors, developers and philanthropists, the designer began crafting jewellery at the age of thirteen, drawing inspiration from her family’s life, legacy and her travels.

Patcharavipa studied at Chelsea College of Art and Design’s art foundation programme in London and then embarked on her Jewellery Design training at Central Saint Martins. She is also a certified gemologist from the Graduate Diamonds Programme of the Gemmology Institute of America (GIA) and the Coloured Stones Programme at the AIGS, the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences in Bangkok. In 2016, she launched her eponymous brand which is stocked in the influential retailer Dover Street Market, London. With her atelier based in Bangkok, Patcharavipa embraces the legend of Thai craftsmanship.

Patcharavipa started off the year with a striking new collection titled “Clues Sepper S/S2021,” a portmanteau for salt and pepper. The collection created during lockdown, presents a series of black, grey, white and salt and pepper diamonds inspired by the porthole designs of French metal worker Jean Prouvé.

Portrait of jewellery designer Patcharavipa Bodiratnangkura photographed by Dham Srifuengfung

1. Can you give me some background into your journey before launching your eponymous brand?

I was always obsessed with the world of art and design. When I was 13, I started a costume jewellery brand “All That Glitters” but I was young and didn’t make it a serious business.

2. How would you describe your brand?

My brand is tactile and bold in design and aesthetics. Our pieces are made all in house. I like to create unique silhouettes on the body that can transition from the day to the evening.

Spiass Object, 8.65ct Lavender Spinel, Coconut Shell set in brass by Patcharavipa

3. How do you choose what gemstones to work with?

This depends on the mood of the collection and the gold or metal I’m working with. Our ‘ready to wear’ collections are set with diamonds for a more neutral and clean look. For the couture collection, I used padparadscha sapphire, paraiba tourmaline and Thai yellow sapphire. I just love the combination of pastels and neon tones together.

4. Why did you start working with coconut shells? From sculptures to wearable jewellery pieces?

The coconut shells are recycled, organically sourced and I was drawn to their feminine shape and form. I’ve always wanted to explore ideas outside something wearable. So when I created these objets d’arts, I decided to set gemstones and materials nestled inside the shells to play with the concept that precious things should always be hidden, like the heart inside our bodies. These coconut shells are found in Amphawa, where my grandparents met each other, so I also wanted to commemorate their love.

Bangkok Flagship Store, photographed by Palida Boonyarungsrit.

5. Your flagship boutique store in Bangkok looks more like a contemporary gallery than a traditional jewellery store. I was instantly drawn to the material finishes of your display. Could you explain the concept behind this?

We love to express our world in full form through subtle details. For the foam display cabinets, I wanted something soft and tactile that could protect the precious jewels and also was easy on the skin. We explored many materials and foam fabric seemed feasible and an exciting material to work with. The foam was made to look like cold, hard concrete which is adeliberate juxtaposition to the warm gold and preciousness of fine jewellery. There’s also a shock element when visitors realise the foam texture of the cabinet!

Portrait of jewellery designer, Patcharavipa Bodiratnangkura, photographed by Rang Ittirit.

6. Your latest collection Clues Sepper was created during the Covid-19 pandemic. How did this affect your creative process?

I didn’t particularly enjoy designing in the confines of my own home because I felt limited. I wanted to express more but due to travel restrictions I couldn’t produce enough samples and tests. Being locked down at home in London, I felt like wearing something casual and practical, everytime I went to the groceries, I didn’t want to wear anything too sparkly. The design came to serve the right purpose as the collection was simple, practical and for everyday-wear. It’s a collection you can sleep in or shower in!

7. What is your favourite jewel you’ve designed?

Hard to say, it’s like asking who’s your favourite child! I am proud of every piece, however I’m particularly fond of my ring designs. I like how all of them can be stacked on top of eachother.

Patcharavipa Clues Sepper S/S21  rose cut diamond cage ring.

8. What advice do you have for females starting in the industry?

You need to believe in yourself and if you’re a jewellery designer, you must have a strong idea behind your design and brand. It should start organically and with a unique design.

Jewelled Cigass, set in 9k Siam Rose Gold with 27.8ct Green Rose Cut Sapphire and Coconut Shell by Patcharavipa.

9. Can you tell us about the women who inspire you the most?

I think it was my grandmother Thanpuying Lersakdi. She was a strong, elegant and fun woman, who loved to dress up and host parties. She started a hotel business and quickly gained recognition as a business woman. She was the first female Minister of transport in Thailand. Exceedingly smart and modern for her age, she had such charisma and strong leadership, both in running the household and in her profession.

10. Who is your favourite artist and how have they influenced your work?

So many! I admire Richard Serra, the artist and sculptor. His work is so fierce, strong and impeccable. His use of materials has inspired my work, particularly his silhouettes. I love their shape and movement.

Patcharavipa, Makia ring, coconut shell and yellow gold.

11. What is next for Patcharavipa?

We will keep growing organically and focus more on our online website as well as private sales. We hope to have our shops around the world especially in London.

Jewellery display at Patcharavipa’s Bangkok flagship shop, photographed by Palida Boonyarungsrit.

About the Author

Isabella Yan, Journalist and Founder of Art meets Jewellery.

Isabella Yan is a British gemmologist and journalist specialising in the fine gems and jewellery industry based in Thailand. She writes for international jewellery and industry magazines including Rapaport, JNA magazine, Solitaire magazine, Upscale Living, Solitaire International, GAMMA Journal, Adorn Insight and Trendvision. She is the creator of Art Meets Jewellery, an online platform that looks at the world of jewellery and gems through the eyes of an artist. In 2021, she launched the Women's Series, a monthly column that aims to celebrate and amplify women’s voices in all facets and levels of the industry. She is always on the lookout for one-of-a-kind jewellery, that showcase creativity and cutting edge design. Her goal is to foster and shine light upon original and creative designs in Asia.

Prior to journalism, Isabella worked in the international art world in London, and held positions in Special Projects, Marketing, Sales and Communications for a gemmological institution and a jewellery manufacturer in Bangkok. An Accredited Gemologist from the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences and the Gemmological Association of Great Britain, Isabella holds a Masters in Art Business from Sotheby's Institute of Art and a Bachelors in Art History from the University of Warwick.

Follow her on Instagram @izza_gem and on Artmeetsjewellery.com

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