Joy Xu (Xu Yunyan), Founder, Director of Design and Creation, Chief Gemologist at Joy Xu Fine Jewelry. All pictures courtesy of Joy Xu Fine Jewelry.
Joy Xu Fuses Oriental Charm with Western Elegance
Julius Zheng
Jewellery secures a special place in the hearts of its wearers, serving as the perfect companion to fashionable attire. It not only subtly signifies one's status but also acts as a conduit for designer Joy Xu's soulful thoughts and overflowing emotions. For her, jewellery is an outlet for her artistic expression, a window into her inner world, and a vessel for encapsulating beautiful moments.
By skillfully merging Oriental charm with Western elegance, Joy Xu (Xu Yunyan), founder of Joy Xu Fine Jewelry, breathes life into one-of-a-kind creations that are as remarkable as the individuals who wear them.
In the realm of fine jewellery, an extraordinary and exclusive industry that demands exceptional professionalism and experience, her unyielding passion serves as the driving force. It is this unwavering dedication that propels her forward, ensuring that each piece she creates becomes a heartfelt celebration of life itself. She approaches every design as if it were a masterpiece on canvas, carefully nurturing the unique qualities that will transform each piece into a narrative of love, joy and beauty, also a timeless testament of its enduring value.
With a deep appreciation for culture and the arts, Joy Xu's life is infused with a love for creativity. From attending exhibitions to interning at foreign embassies, her every step overseas has been intertwined with art and culture. The intricate relief of European cameos, vibrant hues of red coral, and the enchanting Sleeping Beauty blue turquoise have all contributed to the connection between her and jewellery.
The Dance of Phoenix - winner of the 14th "Jade Dragon Award" Gold Medal. Dual-purpose brooch and pearl necklace pendant made with 18 karat gold, diamond and coral. When the European-style carving pattern meets the Pankou button of traditional Chinese garments, this phoenix soars with an intriguing blend of design elements.
Infused with unwavering devotion and meticulous attention to detail, each design bears the essence of her artistic soul. Joy Xu firmly believe that fine jewellery transcends fleeting trends, encompassing an eternal elegance that will be treasured for generations.
According to Joy Xu, the key to being a communicative designer lies in infusing each piece of jewellery with a unique and compelling narrative. Her creations have a sense of story while she allows those who appreciate them to delve into the cultural nuances embedded within. “Jewellery is a personal product which carries the essence of the wearer," she emphasizes. This specificity ensures that each meticulously designed piece possesses its own distinctive meaning, presenting different cultures, visions, and emotions to its wearer. “I comprehend that every story is uniquely personal, and it is my privilege to weave the aspirations of my clients into bespoke jewellery that resonate with their individuality,” says Xu. “Through close collaboration and attentive listening, I endeavor to manifest their vision into a tangible masterpiece that embodies their distinct style and character.”
GEMINI – winner of OFA Design Award. Inspired by the Greek myth of Dioscuri. Versatile design serving as earrings, pendant or double pendants. Featuring 1 pair of sugar-loaf emerald of 1.50 carat each, and 6 baroque-shape non-nucleus golden South Sea natural Keshi pearls of 9mm diameter. Joy Xu wants to express the collision and fusion of rationality and sensibility, as well as symmetrical and baroque shapes. Two twin flowers seem to be the same, but are actually different.
Joy Xu's affinity for jewellery stems from its ability to transcend the limitations of materials. She believes that gemstones should embrace their full potential, beyond conventional cuts. To achieve this, she collaborated with artisans both in China and overseas, to intricately carve gemstones into rich motifs. This infusion of exoticism adds a unique "flavour" to the designs, representing the wearer's literary influences, journeys, and cherished relationships.
The Song of Parrot
Serendipity
Joy Xu is never afraid of imperfections, both within the jewellery itself and as a part of life's journey. In her designs, she intentionally avoids obsessing over the clarity of gemstones or other elements that may be considered flaws. Instead, she employs design techniques that allow the piece as a whole to shine, disregarding imperfections. She believes that the true rarity lies in owning such a piece of jewellery, imperfections and all.
Joy Xu perceives design as a continuous process of building upon past achievements. She draws inspiration from Edwardian lace and garlands, incorporating them into her designs with a modern twist. Rather than replicating these elements, she employs contemporary lines to create jewellery that complements current fashion trends and aesthetics while retaining a touch of timeless elegance.
Joy Xu's passion for culture led her to jewellery, where she weaves cultural attributes into her creations, embodying her unique “literati spirit.” She remains unbothered by sales figures or profit margins, as her true satisfaction comes from knowing that her jewellery is appreciated and understood by those who wear it. In the realm of jewellery, she finds solace, creating an alternate reality that frees her from worldly troubles and enables her to express her poetic vision. For Joy Xu, jewellery represents a collection of cherished experiences. It transcends mere adornment to become a deeply personal form of expression. As she beautifully sums it up, "Jewellery shall be beautiful, artistic, and rich in cultural - a collection of all these elements."
“It is an extraordinary journey to transform someone’s cherished moments into magnificent works of wearable art. Together, we will celebrate life, love, and the extraordinary joy that comes with adorning oneself with truly exceptional jewellery,” she concluded.
The Waltz of Waves, a ring with sapphires and diamonds – winner of 2022 Asian Design New Talent Award (Professional Group)
Secret Garden ring featuring star sapphires, diamonds and pearls.
Orchid Graced by Morning Dew, a ring with lavender jadeite cabochon, sapphires, tsavorites, and diamonds.
The Floral Dreamland – Joy Xu’s most recent design. 18k white gold, natural unheated sapphires, diamonds and pearls. Measuring around 40*60mm, this dual-purpose brooch and pendant features a 12.24 carat unheated star sapphire, accented with various coloured sapphires, to create a dreamy lightscape like Monet's garden. The star sapphire cabochon resembles the surface of a calm lake lit by starlight, surrounded by the world's starry glitter, trailed by three-dimensional Acanthus leaves that symbolise abundance, wisdom and art. In the calm harbour, the flowers float like a dream.
“Ribbon - Dance of Light” ruby and diamond ring - winner of the Most Fascinating Ruby On The Internet Award at The World’s Most Beautiful Ruby Award 2023 by AIGS.
JOY XU (Xu Yunyan)
Founder of Joy Xu Fine Jewelry; Director of Asian Youth Art and Design Alliance; Special Art Director of Shanghai International Design Week; Director of Creative Design Industry Committee of China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT); Member of Shanghai Jewellery Designers Association; Attendee to The World's Outstanding Youth Summit under Davos Forum in 2016.
Her works have been presented at the High Fashion Art Exhibition in Shanghai Jewellery & Watch Week for 2 consecutive years, and have been exhibited in the Designer's Pavilion of the inaugural China Consumer Goods Fair and the GAC Jewellery Designer's Tour at the China International Jewellery Show. Her designs have been featured in China’s national jewellery magazines such as China Gems, Jadeite, Bazaar Jewelry and in fashion magazines including Trendmo.
About the author
Julius Zheng is a jewellery industry analyst and senior consultant to various important firms and institutes. He has developed various projects that connect China’s diamond, coloured gemstones and jewellery sectors with international markets, including organising over 40 China Jewellery Delegations. As a gemologist and educator, he has developed international gemological educational programs.
Formerly General Manager of Rapaport China, he has over 20 years’ international working experience in Asia and North America. He is also a member of the Executive Board of Bangkok Diamonds and Precious Stones Exchange (WFDB affiliated).
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