AIGS Raises the Bar Again with the World's Most Beautiful Ruby Award and New Colour Codes

AIGS Raises the Bar Again with

the World's Most Beautiful Ruby Award and New Colour Codes

Julius Zheng

Established in 1978, AIGS (Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences) is one the first international gemological education institutes and gem testing laboratories in Asia.

In June 2020, AIGS achieved yet another milestone by becoming the first foreign gem testing institute to establish operations in Shanghai and Shenzhen, China. 

  China's coloured gemstone market is experiencing a transformative phase, transitioning from its early stages to a period of dynamic growth and development. As a relatively young market, Chinese consumers are gradually discovering the enchanting world of colored gemstones. However, there is still a need for greater awareness and understanding among consumers, as the information available in the market may lack transparency. During this period of enlightenment, consumers in China have the opportunity to explore and appreciate the unique beauty and value of coloured gemstones. As the market continues to evolve, it becomes increasingly important to provide transparent and reliable information to educate and empower consumers in their purchasing decisions.

  AIGS has chosen to enter the Chinese market due to its optimistic outlook and its deep-rooted passion for the jewelry industry. The objective is to bring cutting-edge research findings on coloured gemstones to China, enabling Chinese consumers to develop a profound understanding and appreciation for these exquisite gems. By doing so, AIGS aspires to enrich their lives by introducing them to the beauty, joy, and sense of accomplishment that gemstones offer. The unwavering commitment to innovation, exceptional technology, and strong brand reputation ensures that AIGS provide impeccable service to jewelers and consumers both in China and worldwide.

Alongside its renowned grading services, AIGS China has spearheaded a range of pioneering projects and events. These include collaborations with prominent Chinese counterparts, engaging in insightful webinars, showcasing the AIGS China Pavilion at key trade shows, ensuring quality assurance services at rough trading fairs, conducting training courses, and organizing the highly anticipated "World's Most Beautiful Ruby Contest."

 Ruby Pageant

The 4th World's Most Beautiful Ruby Award, a collaborative effort between AIGS and BAZAAR Jewelry, recently concluded successfully in Shenzhen, China on July 20. This prestigious competition aimed to raise public awareness and appreciation for the exceptional value of rubies, while also promoting Chinese brands on a global scale. By doing so, the event sought to stimulate growth within the colored gemstone industry and cultivate a deeper understanding of the cultural significance surrounding these precious gems.

With the active participation of hundreds of jewelry enterprises, over 1,000 exquisite pieces of jewelry and loose gemstone entries were showcased, reflecting boundless creativity and masterful craftsmanship. During the competition, more than 10,000 voters enthusiastically took part in the event, reaching an audience over ten million. This event injected new energy into the colored gemstone industry and received high praise from professionals and the wider jewelry community.

“As an event in the coloured gemstone industry, the World’s Most Beautiful Ruby Award aims to promote, support and enhance public awareness and understanding of the value of rubies, and hopes that more Chinese brands will be recognised by overseas consumers,” commented Gloria Chen, CEO of AIGS China. “The competition went far beyond geographical boundaries and attracted the participation of jewellery merchants from all over the world, including Switzerland, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, China and other places, creating a feast for the jewellery industry.”

The Award brings together a distinguished panel of experts from Switzerland, Thailand, China, and other nations. These esteemed judges collectively evaluate the entries and apply their vast knowledge and experience to conduct a rigorous, fair, and impartial assessment. With their professional judgment and extensive criteria, the judges ensure that the evaluation process maintains the highest standards of excellence and integrity.

During the award ceremony, Jing Jing, Executive Publisher and Editor-in-Chief of BAZAAR Jewelry, delivered a heartfelt speech. She shared her personal connection to ruby design competitions, reminiscing about her participation in the inaugural Ruby Competition in Bangkok, Thailand back in 2018. It was during this event, organized by the AIGS headquarters, that she became captivated by the enchanting allure of rubies. Since then, she had eagerly anticipated a grand Ruby Extravaganza, where the most exquisite rubies from around the world would gather in China.

Jing Jing also expressed her passion for the ongoing collaboration between BAZAAR Jewelry and AIGS, highlighting the significance of this competition as a momentous initiative for the entire jewelry industry.

The contest serves as more than just a competition for exceptional rubies. It acts as a driving force within the jewelry industry, inspiring innovative designs and nurturing emerging talents. This prestigious award breathes life into the industry, ensuring its continuous growth and development.

The World’s Most Beautiful Ruby Award 2023 encompasses a total of eight prestigious accolades. These include the BAZAAR Jewelry Ruby Fashion Award, the Best Resplendent Award, the Most Fascinating Ruby On The Internet Award, the Most Popular Award In the Electronic Commerce Category, the Brilliant Light Award and the Excellence in Style Award.

“The contest may have concluded, but its impact on the jewelry industry and the allure of rubies will endure. This event has served as a catalyst, inspiring jewelry practitioners to chase their dreams and make significant contributions to the industry's growth. Looking ahead, we anticipate the presentation of more artistic creations that showcase the vibrant beauty of rubies, ensuring that their vitality continues to thrive over time. Let us bask in the everlasting charm of rubies as they continue to captivate us with their timeless allure,” concluded Gloria Chen.

New colour codes and grading reports

  After successfully establishing a standard for trade names with the launch of the Jedi Spinel color code and grading report in September 2021, AIGS continued its efforts by introducing the Santa Maria color code and grading reports for aquamarine in June 2022. Taking it a step further, AIGS recently unveiled the Sky Blue color code and grading reports in July 2023. These initiatives aim to provide clarity and consistency within the industry, ensuring that gemstones are accurately graded and valued.

Since most aquamarines are eye clean, the colour is one of the most important value factors. Derived from the Latin word for "sea water," aquamarine epitomizes the mesmerizing hues found in the depths of the ocean. The body colour ranges from greenish-blue to blue-green, usually in light tone. 

It's important to note that many aquamarines available in the market undergo heat treatment to enhance their color. As a result, clean, unheated blue aquamarines with good saturation are highly coveted due to their rarity.

The AIGS Santa Maria colour code applies to aquamarines, a variety of beryl, with blue colour and medium saturation without brown or yellow tints. Aquamarines with low saturation, low clarity and dark tones do not meet the criteria. The trade name originates from the typical colour aquamarines from the Santa Maria de Itabira mine in Minas Gerais, Brazil. The legendary mine has produced large quantities of fine colour aquamarines, but is now   almost depleted. The AIGS code Santa Maria refers to colour only and not geographic origin.

“The launch of the Santa Maria colour code is yet another important initiative after launching our Jedi spinel reports in 2021. Trade names such as Pigeon Blood and Royal Blue have been used for centuries by gem traders to describe ideal colours implying value and rarity. Yet these trade names are often ambiguous with definitions varying between buyers and sellers alike. By transforming trade names into an industry standard through reports graded by third-party objectivity, AIGS aims to reduce such ambiguity,” said Kennedy Ho, Chairman of AIGS.

 The colour description of Sky Blue is applied to Aquamarines without brown and yellow tones and are blue like the sky. The AIGS code Sky Blue refers to colour only and not geographic origin.

In May 2023, AIGS launched the colour code of Bamboo Green for peridot. To meet the criteria of Bamboo Green, the peridot must be green/yellowish Green with medium to high saturation, with green being the dominant tone, and without any apparent brownish hue, and with no visible inclusions on the surface. The Bamboo Green colour term is unrelated to geographical location from where the gemstone was mined.

The colour codes for gemstones have gained rapid acceptance among jewelers and consumers globally. In particular, the Chinese market has shown great receptivity to these colour names, thanks to the AIGS standards and alignment with public expectations regarding the quality and aesthetics of gemstones.

 Standardisation efforts

AIGS also plays a vital role in the standardisation efforts within the colored gemstone industry. As a founding member of the Asia-Pacific Gemstone and Technology Standardisation Alliance (AGA), AIGS actively contributes to the formulation and implementation of standards. These standards are designed to safeguard consumer confidence and empower them to make informed choices when selecting jewelry products. By adhering to these standards and leveraging their expertise, AIGS ensures that consumers can trust the quality and authenticity of their gemstone purchases.

Additionally, AIGS actively engages in technology exchanges and scientific research collaborations through the AGA. This allows for the sharing of valuable information on consumer markets and unified testing techniques. By fostering cooperation and knowledge exchange, AIGS aims to promote transparency, consistency, and innovation within the industry. Through these efforts, AIGS continues to enhance consumer trust and contribute to the overall growth and development of the coloured gemstone market.

As it enters its 45th year, AIGS remains dedicated to shaping the future of the industry and serving as a trusted partner for gem enthusiasts, professionals, and businesses alike.

About the author

Julius Zheng is a jewellery industry analyst and senior consultant to various important firms and institutes. He has developed various projects that connect China’s diamond, coloured gemstones and jewellery sectors with international markets, including organising over 40 China Jewellery Delegations. As a gemologist and educator, he has developed international gemological educational programs. 

Formerly General Manager of Rapaport China, he has over 20 years’ international working experience in Asia and North America. He is also a member of the Executive Board of Bangkok Diamonds and Precious Stones Exchange (WFDB affiliated).